Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal.
The main peak is 6,856 metres (22,493 ft), the lower western peak is 6,170
metres (20,243 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the
long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her
child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional
double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.For
several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest basecamp.
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961
by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop(USA),
Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest
Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at
5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific
Expedition of 1960-61, led bySir Edmund Hillary.
Ama Dablam is the third most popular
Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge (right skyline in the photo).Climbers
typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the
right of the hanging glacier,
the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from
the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche proved otherwise. A climbing permit and a
liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest,
the best climbing months are April–May (before the monsoon)
and September–October.
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