Dorje Lhakpa is a mountain in the Langtang
Himal area in Nepal.
Visible
also from Kathmandu valley it has an elegant
pyramid-shaped figure and is an ideal target for photographers and
mountaineers. Considered by many of intermediate difficulty with easiest route
from the west ridge. Its climb is offered by many trekking and mountaineering
agencies in Nepal. The first attempt
and successful climb recorded is by a Japanese expedition in the late 1960s by
the west ridge.
An
other attempt was made by a 7-members-team Italian expedition ADC89 during fall
of 1989, again from the west ridge and approach from south. The climb was
stopped after Camp 1 at approx 6100m due to instable snow and avalanche danger
on the ridge.
In
the following years (1991?) a German expedition successfully climbed the
mountain again by the west ridge.
In
1992, Carlos Buhler made a solo climb of Dorje Lhakpa.
Buhler did not intend initially to climb solo. The climb became a solo of the
West Ridge after Carlos' partner, Jon Aylward, became ill at base camp. The
climb is described in Carlos' 1992 American Alpine Journal article "Alone
on Dorje Lhakpa".
Another
successful expedition was a French team of 4 in 2001.
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